WARDOGS FOB Layout Guide: Where to Build

Basics such as the box, the hammer and the supply types are on the FOB construction page. Aiming a mortar and arming anti-air are on the defense page. This page covers the shape of the base: where to put it, what goes in the core, and how to space the pieces.

Where should you build a FOB?

Match the FOB to the builder count before you match it to the map. A solo player or small team builds faster with a mortar FOB or an AA FOB, since a single mortar pit or launcher goes up quickly. A full squad with logistics support gets more out of a mega FOB, a large walled base that locks down a point of interest with mortars, anti-air and a drill.

Natural terrain saves you supplies. A tower, a church or a factory interior gives you walls, floors or height the game already built. With a Bremmer wall at 32 supplies and a gate at 200, that saving is bigger than it was. Players report that a factory interior is the strongest of the three: mortars, rocket helicopters and most explosives other than C4 are said to be unable to reach a FOB built inside it.

Build on your own side. A FOB placed far from your team's spawn tends to be found and taken before you can defend it. A solo builder who wants to avoid a fight can hide a mortar or AA FOB at the edge of a treeline or behind a house, away from the main infantry routes. The trade-off: building outside the control zone means your team earns nothing from the zone while you sit there.

What does each FOB type cost in supplies?

These are example layouts, not game rules. The mortar and AA FOBs assume 12 Bremmer walls and a two-gate airlock. The mega FOB assumes 40 walls, a two-gate airlock, two bunkers, two mortars, a Talon, a CIWS and a Hot Zone Magnet. Change the wall count for your site and the total moves by the wall price.

The mortar FOB went from the cheapest build to nearly three times its old cost (500 to 1,384), while the AA FOB got about 8% cheaper to place (2,850 to 2,634). The gap between the two shrank from 2,350 to 1,250, so a solo builder who wants a cheap start should look at the Talon first, and budget the ammo it will eat.

Protect the core before you wall the outside

Wall the FOB core first, then work outward. Give a raider several separate barriers to get through before they reach the box, so no single breach hands them the whole base. Closing off the entire perimeter on day one tends to leave a sprawling, half-finished build that is expensive to lose, and at 32 supplies a wall that mistake costs more than twice what it did. Build the core, then defensive positions, then the perimeter.

Build airlock gates instead of one entrance

A single door is the weakest point in any FOB, because breaching it opens the whole base at once. An airlock fixes that: build two gates with a short gap between them. A raider has to breach twice to get anywhere, and the breach sets off a raid announcement. At 200 supplies a gate, a two-gate airlock is 400 (it was 170). Gates do not close themselves, so a second gate also covers for a teammate who forgets to close the first.

The Halligan bar now breaches gates as well as doors, and a hammer cannot, so an airlock slows a raider with a bar by a few seconds a gate instead of stopping them. Build it for the warning time, and keep defenders covering the inner gate.

Face the inner gate so anyone stepping through is exposed to your defenders, not tucked behind a wall.

Funnel attackers instead of just blocking them

Cheap barriers don't need to stop a raider outright. Hedgehogs and barbed wire around the outer edge keep vehicles off your walls, and barbed wire pushes attackers into the killzone your bunkers and gates already cover. Season 2 lets you place barbed wire and sandbags on top of Bremmer walls, restricts tank traps to a set of surfaces, and stops barbed wire from paying kill cash or XP, so it is a steering tool only. For walls that actually need to hold, double-layer them. Brimstone concrete takes more C4 than Hesco (7 charges for a wall against 2 to 4), and stacking it adds height against fire from outside the base.

Space mortars and anti-air so one shell can't wipe them

A FOB usually loses its firepower in one hit because the pieces are clustered. Spreading mortars, drills and anti-air forces the enemy to range each target separately instead of catching them in one blast radius. Give each mortar pit a footprint of its own and wall it in Hesco or Bremmer for splash and small-arms protection, leaving the top open for the barrel. At 600 supplies a mortar, one well-protected pit beats two exposed ones.

Where should the Talon and CIWS go?

Both anti-air weapons have a blind spot directly above them, so placement decides whether that blind spot matters. Give the Talon a clear sightline in every direction you expect helicopters to approach from, and put it on high ground: it loses its lock if the target climbs above it. Season 2 changes the budget rule. The Talon is 650 to place, cheaper than before, but a restock is 200 ammo supplies instead of 50 and the reload is 5 seconds instead of 2, so ten missiles cost 2,650 supplies in total against 1,500 last season. Place a Talon you will feed, and do not expect it to be the cheap layer any more.

The CIWS doesn't need a lock, so it's the more forgiving of the two against helicopters at close to medium range, but it is dead weight once its operator dies. It dropped from 1,500 to 1,200 supplies to place. Protect it with a bunker directly behind the turret, or a tall Hesco wall next to it with a sandbag behind the gun, and keep the firing arc clear. A step-by-step version is the compact anti-air FOB on the defense page.

A build order that survives contact

This sequence builds protection before firepower: